essex Wall Tiling Guides

The Essex wall tilers directory is a free service providing you with wall and floor tilers in the Essex area please use the list below to find a wall or floor tiler in the Essex area.

Blackpool WALL Tilers

Floor tiling guide brought to you by Tower Tiles

Floor tiling guide a step-by-step guide on tiling your floor - in any room.

Materials checklist

The adhesive you use will depend on tiles chosen and where you’re planning to use them. For example, always choose waterproof adhesive in damp situations, such as shower cubicles, where ceramic tiles will get a good soaking. With underfloor heating, choose one that is also heat resistant. Check manufacturer’s specifications and follow the instructions carefully. What you will need:

Tiles
Grouting
Adhesive
Hardboard
Underlay nails (for timber floors)
Tile spacers
Concrete/cement/slate/sand
Self-levelling compound such as Hi-Tech Rapid Floor Leveller (for uneven concrete floors)

If you’re planning to renovate or simply updating, consider tiling your floors. A tiled floor is attractive, hard-wearing and easy to clean. And today’s choice of tiles means you’ll easily find the type you want, in the colour or pattern to suit your decor. If you thought that tiling floors was a difficult job only for a tradesperson, then we’ve good news for you. Provided the surface is suitable and you prepare it correctly, laying tiles requires no special skill, especially with modern adhesives. Not only do you save money, you also get the satisfaction of seeing a job well done and one you did yourself. With this step-by-step guide – and a little help from Tower Tiles – you can’t go wrong.

Which type of tile?

Ceramic tiles are ideal for kitchens, bathrooms and halls, but their hard-wearing and decorative surface is suitable for any room. They come both glazed and unglazed in a wide range of colours and patterns. You should seal unglazed tiles with a ceramic tile sealer before walking on them.
Vinyl tiles are latex backed and comfortable to walk on. They are supple and are easy to handle and lay. They come in many colours and designs, some imitating other materials such as stone and timber. You can use them in any room, but they are especially suited to kitchens and bathrooms.

Step 1: Planning.

It’s worth measuring and planning your layout on paper first, especially if you intend to use an intricate design. If the room is an irregular shape, divide it into rectangles and measure each one separately. Then make a scale drawing on graph paper. This will help you set out an attractive design and allow you to work out the number of tiles you need.
Ceramic tiles are commonly 150x150mm square or 100x200mm oblong, but interlocking circular, hexagonal and provencale-shaped tiles are also available. They can be bought singly or by the square metre. Vinyl and Cork tiles are 300x300mm square and are usually sold in packs.
If you’re not planning a design, use this chart as a quick guide to the number of tiles you’ll need.

Step 2: Preparing the floor surface.

The surface should be dry, flat, stable and free from grease, dirt and unsound material. If you have a concrete floor which is flat and level, go ahead and lay your tiles without further ado. But if there are small cracks or holes, first chisel out any loose material, sweep clean and fill using a pre-mixed cement. An uneven floor can be levelled using a self-levelling compound.

Step 3: Finding the starting point

Tiles look best centred in the middle of the room with any narrow tiles at the edges. So your first task is to find the centre of the floor. If you simply begin from a corner you may end up with whole tiles along one side and narrow tiles along the other. So instead, measure along one wall and mark the centre at floor level. Do the same along the opposite wall. Now stretch a stringline from one centre mark to the other. Then repeat the process for the other two walls. The two lines will meet at the exact centre of your floor.

Step 4: Laying your tiles.

Except for self-adhesive vinyl tiles, all floor tiles are laid in much the same way.
Begin by laying whole tiles, working from the centre outwards. Spread a bed of adhesive with a notched adhesive spreader according to the maker’s instructions (Fig. 3). Spread only enough adhesive to cover an area of about one square metre - any bigger and the adhesive may dry out before you reach the end.
Ceramic: press the first tile into position, then twist it slightly to firmly bed it in the adhesive. Place the second tile alongside with the same gentle twisting motion, using a plastic tile spacer between them to obtain evenly spaced gaps. Continue until you’ve reached the edge of the adhesive, then spread another layer over a further square metre.

Step 5: Fitting border tiles.

When all the tiles are in position, start cutting tiles to size. Place the tile to be cut exactly on top of the last whole tile in a particular row. Place a second tile over it, this time butted up against the wall or skirting board (Fig. 4) (for ceramic tiles, place your tile spacer against the wall to allow for grouting). Use the edge of the top tile to make a line on the tile to be cut.
For ceramic tiles, score across the line with a scribing tile cutter, then snap the tile with a heavy duty tile cutter for a clean break (Fig. 5). Combine adhesive on the back of the cut tile and press it into position hard against the wall or skirting. To cut an L-shape, score the surface carefully and nibble away the waste with tile pincers (Fig. 6).

Step 6: Finishing off

Ceramic tiles will need to be grouted and cork tiles sealed. In both cases, allow 24 hours for the adhesive to dry.
When buying grouting, ensure that the colour you choose is going to enhance the overall appearance of the job. Mix it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make up only a small amount at a time and work in areas of one square metre. Use a sponge or rubber squeegee to force the grout into all gaps, wiping off the excess with a damp sponge as you work. It’s best to use a piece of thin dowel with a rounded end to smooth the joints. If you use your finger, make sure you wear rubber gloves - grout can irritate the skin. Leave it to dry for the manufacturer’s recommended time, then polish with a clean, dry cloth.
Dust carefully - you can use a slightly damp cloth but don’t saturate the tiles. Leave them to dry, then seal as per manufacturer’s instructions with brush, roller or mop.
Leave each coat to dry for at least 24 hours before applying the next.

floor tiling guide